Memories of Lost L.A. Eateries
by AlDesmadre
Call me L.A. selfish, but I am greatly opposed to creating a “Best of L.A.” list, especially for our foods & restaurants. I cringe when local magazines print their “Best Of” issues, and here’s why. Growing up in L.A., I’ve accumulated over 40 years of my own best and worst food knowledge based on countless miles of adventure, explorations, accidental discoveries, bouts of food poisoning, word-of-mouth, patience, and just plain old trial and error.I measure those countless miles traveled as highly treasured experiences that have forged my strong bond with this city while nurturing many friendships and relationships with many good people who live and work here. I don’t mind giving an occasional tip to someone who seems like they’d really enjoy and appreciate a place as much as I have, But when I picture some trendy-trippers or jet-set hobos dropping in on my town with a sense of entitlement to instant gratification, skimming the city’s cream of the crop while posing like regulars without paying their dues, or when I read about new to L.A. transplants asking “Where do I find Boston Style This”,.. or “Chicago style that” it all makes me quite buggy. But that’s just my trip. Most “Best Of” lists include well known gastronomic treasures that have been discovered and rediscovered by new generations of fans, but in my humble opinion, cherry picking the town denies you the opportunity to actually LIVE it, and denies our town any chance of at least trying to form a sense of community. So, don’t look for any shortcuts from me, I will rarely reveal my favorite L.A. eats. I say, walk the streets, get out there on your own and find what makes you happy. Besides, most recommendations can be very over-rated.
I am glad however, to provide my own little nostalgic list of “Long Gone” local favorite L.A. eateries that made my life a happy one throughout the years.
These places have now faded away into the graveyard of L.A. memories, But if you happen to recognize any of these, hey- you’ve got (had) great taste! For some reason, most of my favorite joints were non-fancy dives, “Comida del Pueblo” as my Dad would say.
1. The Original Johnny’s Shrimp Boat- 2nd & Main St., Downtown L.A.
You’ve heard of the red carpet? This place had a “Wino Carpet”. You literally had to step over them to get into this tiny shed where a bunch of Asian guys furiously flung battered shrimp around clouds of grease. You’d order fried shrimp to go and the paper bags would be transparent by the time you got home. I remember eating my short ribs, gravy & rice with a slice of buttered bread sitting in the family car while watching the boxers across the street go upstairs to the Main Street Gym. The original owner’s kin opened another Johnny’s Shrimp Boat stand that still operates today. It’s OK, but not like the original.
Photo Above is of the Original Johnny’s Shrimp Boat on Main St., Downtown, circa 1970’s.
2. Thrifty’s Coffee Shop- Whittier Blvd. & Ferris Ave., E.L.A.
Good God. The Logjammer Breakfast. The Apple Cobbler with Vanilla Sauce, A La Mode. The Strawberry Shortcake with whipped cream, all indescribably delicious! When I’d finally get up from their food counter, I’d go into the store itself and whatever was left of my allowance I’d spend it on Comic Books and Hot Wheels®.
3. Chicken Boy- Broadway & 4th, Downtown L.A.
When my parents would take me downtown, or “EL Centro” as everyone called it (funny- I remember downtown always being called “The Center”, so the Eastside really is…., sorry! I digress..) We would often eat at Chicken Boy’s. Huge pieces of hot, spicy, crunchy juicy fried chicken with a mound of tangy cole slaw and fluffy rolls with honey. Back in those days, everybody could just walk into the movie theaters on Broadway with outside food, so you’d be watching the movie with the whole place smelling of everybody’s Chicken Boy Fried Chicken dinners.
4. Sid & Hy’s- 8th & Olive Street, Downtown
Hot dogs made in heaven. A little 8 foot shack where these two crazy old white guys worked side by side plucking hot franks and buns straight from a steaming hot box, slathered hot chili, onions & mustard on, hand squeezed fresh orange juice or made you a chocolate egg cream, and handed it all to you in about a minute after you’d ordered, for about three bucks.
5. Orange Julius- Various locations
Whatever happened to this Orange Juice and Egg batter concoction? Damn- It was good! They even had a cool little Devil head Logo,
6. Kmart- Whittier Blvd. City of Commerce.
I don’t know about other Kmarts, but ours had a Deli/Snack bar with the greatest giant Submarine Sandwiches as well as Jell-O, pudding cups, Slurpies and all sorts of neat crap. I’d often be shopping with my Mom when the voice on the P.A. would announce, “Attention Kmart shoppers, Come to the Flashing Blue Light at our Deli right now and get two delicious Submarine Sandwiches for $1.00!” We’d all make a bee-line!
7. Bill’s Paradise- Beverly Blvd. & Hendricks Ave., Montebello.
Unbelievably good late night comfort food. Menu favorites were the “Four Finger Dog”, and the “Bill’s Special Burger”. The running gag was that the waitress was giving you “The Eye”. When actually, she really only had one eye. Not funny. Some people are going to hell for that. There’s a sort of new incarnation of it today in the original location, but again, not the same.
8. Yee Low Deli- Atlantic Square, Monterey Park.
The best freaking deli style Chinese food I’ve ever had. I have drool dreams to this day of their Black Bean Chicken, Egg Rolls, big thick Chow-Fun Noodles and Chinese Chicken Salad. If I had a Time Machine, I’d use a trip just to visit this place again.
9. Cha Cha Cha Panaderia- Whittier Bl. near McBride Ave., E.L.A.
Everyone has their favorite Pan Dulce joint, but this one was legendary in our neighborhood. Every one of their breads was a delicious, fluffy treat. For about $2.00 you’d carry home two big, hot steaming bags of finger lickin’ good sweet bread and bolillos along with a box of “La Abuelita” chocolate for Mom to make. And that night, we’d eat like Aztec Kings.
10. Sears Candy Counter- Olympic & Soto, Boyle Heights.
Who could make up their minds while choosing from that sweet selection of candy deep within the bowels of the Sears Roebuck store. While my Mom was upstairs buying my clothes in the “Husky Boys” section, I’d be downstairs blowing my pinchi allowance on chocolate covered raisins, coconut bars, popcorn and video games.
This is an excellent post. I am sad to have missed out Chicken Boy, among others. I offer one correction: KMart did not have Slurpies, they had “Slush Puppies!” which were way better than slurpies.
Great post Al. I spent many a summer day at the Sears video game shop, many times with a gum attached to a straw so as to try and get some of those jammed quarters from the machines. Or with a long wire to try and get credits thru the coin return slot and then maybe sell the 30 credits for 2 bucks to some chump. Eventually security would come around to chase us away. It’s funny how much entertainment you can figure out without any money.
Awesome post, Al!
Wow, I had totally forgot about Yee Low Deli! One of my mom’s favorite places for Chinese food.
And yes, the Sears basement where my mom would buy me my “discount” clothes (she claims we didn’t go there as often as I remember). Your description of the candy counter instantly brought back the memory of that warm smell of popcorn and melty sugar treats.
I can still remember the SMELL of the popcorn & chocolate that hung in the air of the old Sears store. And I thought they has the best toy collection in the world!
My family used to go to the Thrifty diner on 5-points in Lincoln Heights during the 60’s. Then we would walk half a block down to the pet shop, or go across the street to the Army Surplus Store
When the Militant was a wee little Militant kid, he’d look forward to Sears just for the popcorn (he still remembers the orange-colored popcorn boxes).
or when I read about new to L.A. transplants asking “Where do I find Boston Style This”,.. or “Chicago style that” it all makes me quite buggy.
YES!!! Thank You!!! If you really like that shit, then GO BACK HOME!
The very first Johnny’s Shrimp boat was on Main half a block south of 1st street before they moved to the spot between 2rd and 3rd. I use to love the fries that they would put into a small brown paper bag which dripped of grease on the bottom. The “hamburger, rice and beans” was also a treat. Do you remember the Chinese guy with the fu manchu mustache that practically lived there taking the orders?
If you’re old enough, you’ll remember Gus’s on Brooklyn and State st.in Boyle Heights where in 1960 one could order a burger, fries and a coke for.45c while listening to “dedicated to the one I love” on the jukebox for another 5 cents.
Ciruela- Hush Puppies, you’re right. Most of Kmart’s floors were covered with it.
Chavo- I remember some guy at the arcade selling me 30 credits for….-DOH!
Militant- De Nada!
John M.- I do remember that Chinese guy! He was there literally 24/7. He had a wild look and always the same clothes whenever we went. Also, they had those serve-yourself top door opening bottled soda refrigerators and it was so easy to “Five-finger-discount” those drinks because Fu-Manchu was so distracted all the time. The winos did it all day. Thanks for awakening more repressed memories.
Sorry, I wasn’t familiar with Gus’s, I wish I had. Does anyone remember a burger stand off of Whittier Bl. near Kern Ave, called the MONKE-UDDLE?
I remember all the Eastside Saturday night club goers in their polyester best & platform shoes going to skid row to order what seemed to be the same order 99% of the time - 6 battered shrimp with white rice and hot sauce, and the Chinese guy would yell to the cooks all night, over and over, “six and rice!” And then we would sit in our cars to eat while listening to Tower of Power on 8-track while all the winos would tap on the car window asking for change. I think Johnny’s Shrimpboat couldn’t survive after the Eastside crowd discovered “Disco Denny’s” & in Montebello and Tommy’s in Echo Park. a few years later
I also remember Gus, owned by what else - a Greek family.
Anyone remember the original Cantor’s deli on Brooklyn & Soto? It was there from the 1920’s to about 1975.
bill’s paradise was awesome.
they had a special quesadilla that was grossly delicious.
and yee-low deli had thee best fried rice EVER!
i miss these old east side eateries. too bad they aren’t around no more.
I’m glad my kids and their dad remember so many good eats… but how could you forget Scarandino’s Pizza–argentine made umm umm and free delivery from Monterey Park to Boyle Heights! How about Woolworth’s Pizza in the 60’s? And Garduno’s burritos made with frijoles hechos con manteca bad for your health but good for your chicano soul. Why, I remember when Olvera Street (Cielito Lindo) tacos were 2 for 25 cents and Tommy’s Hamburgers were 20 cents and the hot dogs were 15 cents. My dad said they put cocaine in the sauce to make everyone come back for more! (I guess drugs were cheaper then.)
Ansirena,Yes! Thank you! I was going to add Woolworth’s Pizza & Hot Dogs (and their lunch counter, but they kind of went downhill about the 90’s) to my list as well as Garduno’s (but they’re still around) but I also left out other faves: Zorba’s Burgers, A&W Root Beer stand across from Kmart, Pup & Taco chain, This Drive-thru Stand on Soto just north of Whittier Bl. that had Chili Dogs for 18 cents, and the Hollywood Famous Amos cookies store on Sunset & Formosa (the whole corner smelled of fresh baked cookies!)
How about…
Orozco’s Tacos on Soto St. near the 10 frwy
The meanest S.O.B. ran the one table size joint. The tacos (freshly fried! Like there really is no other way) were FIRME. But, don’t you dare ask for the mocajete mashed, super hot, roasted serrano chile salsa on the side or face indignant ridicule from the owner. I swear, that guy with his white Zapata style mustache and bracero brown skin was thee taco nazi of East LA.
“Quieres mi salsa a lado? Pues, NO tacos por ti!”
R.I.P. Senor Orozco (You can still see his sign on the street).
Thanks Menoman, that’s a great review. When I really like a place like that I’ll keep going back fully ready to suffer the inevitable abuse by the nasty staff. Such as:
Lupe’s 12 Kinds of Burritos where there’s always three sure things: 1. You’re going to get yelled at. 2. You’re going to get sick afterwards. 3. You’ll be back.
Yeah Lupe’s a mean lady (is she Lupe?, Im afraid to ask). Last time she yelled at me I swore Id get my burritos from Al & Bea’s and my burgers from Cronie’s.
BTW, Great post Al!
One of my earliest childhood memories is my mom and aunt talking about all the homeless while we walked in the Johnnie’s shrimp boat. I still go the one on Whittier across from La Mascota, and remember the how elated my family was about the La Puente location when it existed and we lived out there.
Al, you have a great memory. So is Orange Julius now extinct? I noticed Antigua Bakery here in Highland Park was advertising their own version and it made me wonder about trademark infringement… Happy 4 de Mayo “Dia de los putas y tequila!”
Walt,
Trademarks? Trademarks???? We don’t need no shteeenking Trademarks!!!!!
You obviously have not noticed every possible cartoon character on our pinatas, senor!!!
And THANK YOU my friend Walt!, for the 4 De Mayo holiday Greeting!
(by the guey, Walt is my compadre & co-celebrator for this little known Mexican holiday!)
http://losangeles.cacophony.org/mexicannight.htm
ahhh, bill’s paradise. still find myself thinkin’ about them burgers…..
spent a good portion of my early childhood lost in the sears on soto, and everytime my grandma would ease the trauma with a trip to the candy area. swear to god, to this day the smell of popcorn takes me right back there……
Who remembers the little Sears Snack Bar/Hot Dog Stand that was out front in the Soto St. Parking lot?
My ex mentioned Cielito Lindo on Olvera street. Well I still go there despite the ridiculous prices. They are addictive. On the other side of Olvera st. is La Luz del dia where I order the Picadillo. We once saw Marlon Brando sitting at the Zocalo all by himself. This was about the time he was filming the Godfather. My son mentioned Orozco’s tacos and yes he definitely was THEE TACO NAZI- he even looked German!
Thanks John, La Luz Del Dia was and still is good, thankfully it has not been “Lost”. The Picadillo & hand made tortillas is thee best.
I do remember the little outside Sears snack stand - to the left of the stairs as you walked up. It later became the Ticketron (and then Ticketmasters) window. Anyone remember the shoe warehouse in the back of Sears?
I know Salvator’s is no longer across the street from Sears, but is Rusty’s Hacienda still there?
I don’t know if Rusty’s Hacienda is still there. I can’t imagine a “mexican” restaurant like Rusty’s could prosper among the many truly Mexican restaurants in Boyle Heights. Back when I use to live in B.H. my wife and I went there circa 1970 and after we finish our horrible meal, the anglo manager asks us if we liked the food. When I told her that I felt it wasn’t authentic, she had the audacity to say to me ” well if you want authentic - go to Mexico!” Of course we never graced their restaurant again.
I liked it when they used to bring Circuses to that Sears parking lot. Once I saw
“El Circo De KiKo” there until “El Chavo” issued him a cease & desist order for character copyright infringement. It seems that “El Chavo” owns the exclusive rights to all his characters and doesn’t like people trying to cash in. True story, I ain’t lying.
He should have learned from the famous American television clown called Bozo the Clown. His real name was Larry Harmon. He owned the franchise and made a ton of money. There was a local Bozo the Clown in every city with their own TV show and he got his cut on the TV revenue and personal appearances, but the original was in LA I believe.
I remember going to Rusty’s with the Benjamin Franklin Library staff in the late 70’s and the food was horrible! But I last saw it open in the mid 90’s. How did it make money? If there is one thing I’ve learned, the biggest returning customers for local crappy Mexican food, is other Mexicans! Manuals!!!??? Flautas!!?? (Both are on Evergreen - the Eastside’s version of the Hatfields vs, the McCoys)
Correction:
The restaurant across the street from Manual’s (El Tepayac) is called Cieros.
Hey Rudy, Thanks for all the insights. All these kinds of interesting anecdotes are exactly what I’d hoped to get in response from this post. These little details & memories from all you readers about the common things we’ve all enjoyed growing up in our L.A. neighborhoods is truly enriching and inspiring. It brings back old images of the people, places and things that make up the slideshow of our lives. Those of us who’ve had our whole lives and hearts intermingled with this city know that there’s no place like L.A.
C/S!
Hey, has anyone mentioned Al & Bea’s on 1st St.? I don’t know why but their combo burritos are so delicious. I think it’s their sauce. It’s not salsa but something like it. They’ve been there for over 50 years! Of course there were some Jewish delis in the B.H. area-the most famous being Canter’s before they moved to Fairfax, but the last Jewish Deli in the E.L.A. area was I believe in the Monterey Park shopping center on Atlantic. I don’t remember the name, maybe Atlantic Square Deli? I really miss that deli.
Al, you touched on a subject that’s very close to my family’s heart!
I’ll add that I sometimes get cravings for burritos wrapped in yellow paper, accompanied by an Orange Bang. I think I must’ve eaten those when I was a kid or something. Nothing like the REAL Mexican food available now. It’s only been in the last ten years or so, I’ve noticed Pambazos, Huaraches and other delicacies in local restaurants.
It’s funny because you’d go to Mexico and order a Burrito an they didn’t know what the Hell you were talking about. Over time, we’ve created our own Chicano food menu unique to our region and to some, this is the Mexican food they know and love. To other purists, this is not genuine and you have to go to Mexico to have the real thing. And yet to still others, places like EL COYOTE, ACAPULCO, and TACO BELL serve the Mexican food they know & Love. I’m just glad we have an ever broadening range of Mexican eateries to choose from here in L.A., not to mention the awesome selections we can enjoy from our Home-Cooked dishes (like Mom makes!) that’s something
special that money can’t buy.
You know, we see this whole Taco Truck controversy in the news these days but it strikes me that there are strong ties to this kind of food vendor entrepreneur spirit that goes back to the way things are done in Mexico. I was in Mexico City many years ago and they’ve got people who literally sell food to passerby from the front window of their homes. Or, they set up a little table on the sidewalk and just serve up an instant food stand. You’d find some amazingly great quesadillas or gorditas on the street, but I’m sure you’d also find a lot of exposure to health hazards.
That corner where Orozco’s Tacos on Soto St. is no more. I always wondered why it was closed for a long time. Then when a fence went around the property I knew what was next. First the taco stand wall facing the street was gone and you can see how small the place actually was. Then the house attached to Orozco’s Tacos went down too.
Despite Mr.Orozco’s reputation as the taco nazi, he made a great taco, no taco has ever come close to his. May God have mercy on him when he tastes one of his tacos. For God won’t be able to get rid of that burning in his mouth and send him straight to hell.
Orozsco was the “taco Nazi” my childhood memories were not good, however the post regarding “Al and Beas” is straight up…great buritos and they are still haning in there during the Metro destruction of first street!
I remember one afternoon around ‘72 walking home from Salesian HS and some friends and I stopped at Al & Beas. There was a small parking lot between the them and the old Hollenbeck police station and they were filming a movie in the parking lot. I did not recognize the mature actor until the movie came out - it was George C. Scott and they were filming The New Centurions. If you watch the film, it was filmed all over the the local area. And throughout the movie the squad cars are rolling out of the parking lot and I believe you can see Al & Beas in the background.
Also the other Wambaugh film, The Choir Boys has a night scene filmed at Hollenbeck park.
Greetings!
My favorite memory of the Thrifty Drug lunch counter in my neighborhood (Panorama City) circa 1961 was the apple cobbler with vanilla sauce. mmmmmmm!
Would you, by ANY chance know where I might find the recipe?
Many thanks for the memories,
Pam Miller